Lowetsani imelo yanu ndikukhala ndi zatsopano zamakalata, zoyitanira zochitika ndi kukwezedwa kudzera pa imelo ya Vogue Business.Mutha kusiya kulembetsa nthawi iliyonse.Chonde onani ndondomeko yathu yachinsinsi kuti mudziwe zambiri.
Makampani opanga zovala m'maso sanagwirizane ndi momwe mafakitale ena amafashoni amayendera, koma monga kuchuluka kwazinthu zodziyimira pawokha kumakhudza msika ndi malingaliro anzeru, matekinoloje atsopano, komanso kudzipereka pakuphatikiza, zosintha zikuchitika.
Ntchito ya M&A yayambanso, chomwe ndi chizindikiro cha nthawi yovuta kwambiri.Kering Eyewear adalengeza dzulo kuti akufuna kugula Lindberg, mtundu wa zovala zamaso zapamwamba zaku Danish zomwe zimadziwika ndi magalasi apamwamba a titaniyamu komanso mawonekedwe ake, zomwe zikuwonetsa cholinga chake chopanga ntchitoyi.Pambuyo pa kuchedwa ndi zovuta zalamulo, wopanga maso wa ku France ndi Italy EssilorLuxottica potsiriza anamaliza kupeza wogulitsa maso a Dutch Grandvision kwa 7.3 biliyoni euro pa July 1. Chizindikiro china champhamvu: Warby Parker, katswiri wa zovala zamaso ku United States, wangolemba kumene. IPO - iyenera kutsimikiziridwa.
Makampani opanga zovala zamaso akhala akulamulidwa ndi mayina angapo, monga EssilorLuxottica ndi Safilo ku Italy.Makampani opanga mafashoni monga Bulgari, Prada, Chanel ndi Versace amadalira osewera akuluakuluwa kuti apange zojambula zamaso zomwe nthawi zambiri zimakhala ndi chilolezo.Kering Eyewear idakhazikitsidwa mu 2014 ndipo imapanga mkati, ikupanga, kugulitsa ndi kugawa zovala zamaso za mtundu wa Kering, Richemont's Cartier ndi Alaïa, ndi mtundu wamasewera Puma.Kupanga kumapangidwabe makamaka kwa ogulitsa am'deralo: Fulcrum yakhazikitsa bizinesi yopeza ndalama zokwana mayuro 600 miliyoni.Komabe, akatswiri atsopano ovala maso pakupanga, kupanga ndi kugawa akupanga mphamvu zatsopano pamsika.Kuphatikiza apo, ngakhale EssilorLuxottica ali ndi udindo waukulu, makampani ena amafashoni akufuna kuphunzira kuchokera pakuchita bwino kwa mitundu yodziyimira pawokha ya eyewear.Dzina loyenera kuliwona: Gentle Monster waku South Korea, mtundu wokhala ndi malo ogulitsira omwe amawoneka ngati malo opangira zojambulajambula, mgwirizano wapamwamba komanso mapangidwe abwino.LVMH idagula 7% mu 2017 pamtengo wa US $ 60 miliyoni.Ena amakonda kukhala anzeru komanso ophatikiza.
Malinga ndi Euromonitor International, makampani opanga kuwala abwereranso kwambiri mu 2021, ndipo makampani akuyembekezeka kukula ndi 7% kuti afikire US $ 129 biliyoni.Popeza magalasi amagulidwa kwambiri m'masitolo, kubweza kwachuma kudzayendetsedwa ndi kupumula kwa zoletsa zakuthupi zomwe zimakhazikitsidwa ndi mliriwu komanso kuchulukana kwachuma.Ofufuza adati kutsegulidwanso kwamakampani ogulitsa kumalimbikitsa kubwezeretsanso manambala awiri m'misika ina, kuphatikiza Hong Kong ndi Japan.
M'mbuyomu, makampani opanga mafashoni sanakhalepo ndi ukadaulo wopanga zinthu zamaso, motero adatembenukira kumakampani monga EssilorLuxottica kuti apange ndikugawa zinthu.Mu 1988, Luxottica adasaina pangano loyamba la layisensi ndi Giorgio Armani, "gulu latsopano lotchedwa 'magalasi' linabadwa", monga Federico Buffa, Mtsogoleri wa R & D, Product Style ndi Licensing ya Luxottica Group, adatero.
Kupeza kwa EssilorLuxottica kwa GrandVision kudapanga wosewera wamkulu kwambiri.Katswiri wina wa kafukufuku wa Bernstein, Luca Solca, ananena mu lipoti kuti: “Kutuluka kwa chimphona chatsopano cha magalasi kwachititsa kuti pakhale siteji.”"Tsopano tikhoza kuyamba ntchito yophatikizana pambuyo pophatikizana moona mtima.Pali zinthu zambiri zoti muchite, kuphatikiza…kuphatikiza zinthu ndi zogulitsa.Njira ndi zomangamanga, zida zophatikizira zodulira ma lens ndi zokutira, kusintha makulidwe a netiweki ndikuwongolera, komanso kuthamangitsa digito. ”
Komabe, mitundu yaying'ono ingakhudze chitukuko chamtsogolo cha magalasi apamwamba.Mitundu yaku America ya Coco ndi Breezy ili ndi masheya ku Nordstrom komanso pafupifupi 400 masitolo opanga kuwala, kuyika kuphatikizidwa patsogolo pagulu lililonse."Zogulitsa zathu zilibe jenda," adatero mapasa aku Africa-America ndi Puerto Rican Corianna ndi Brianna Dotson.“Titangolowa kumsika, anthu ankati: 'Kodi zovala zanu zachimuna zili kuti?Kodi zovala zanu zachikazi zili kuti?Tikupanga magalasi a anthu omwe nthawi zonse amawanyalanyaza [opanga zinthu zakale]. ”
Izi zikutanthauza kupanga magalasi oyenera milatho yosiyanasiyana ya mphuno, cheekbones ndi maonekedwe a nkhope.“Kwa ife, mmene timapangira magalasi kwenikweni ndi kuchita kafukufuku wamsika ndi kuyesetsa kupanga [mafelemu] oyenera aliyense,” anatero alongo a Dotson.Iwo anakumbukira zotsatira za kutenga nawo mbali mu Vision Expo monga mtundu wa magalasi okhawo omwe ali ndi anthu akuda."Kwa ife, ndikofunikira kwambiri kuwonetsa zapamwamba osati ku Europe kokha.Pali njira zambiri zowonera zinthu zapamwamba,” adatero.
Mtundu waku Korea wa Gentle Monster, womwe unakhazikitsidwa ndi woyambitsa ndi CEO Hankook Kim mu 2011, adayamba kupanga mafelemu ogula aku Asia okha, koma atakopa omvera padziko lonse lapansi, mtunduwo tsopano wapanga magalasi angapo ophatikiza."Poyambirira, sitinkaganiza zopita kudziko lonse," atero a David Kim, mkulu wa kasitomala ku Gentle Monster."Panthawiyo, pamsika waku Asia, mafelemu okulirapo anali chizolowezi.Pamene tikukula, tinapeza kuti mafelemuwa sanali okondweretsedwa ndi dera la Asia lokha.”
Mapangidwe ophatikizika, monga magalasi onse abwino, ndi okongola komanso othandiza."Tiyenera kugwirizanitsa machitidwe, mafashoni ndi machitidwe," adatero Kim."Zotsatira zake ndikuti tili ndi chisankho chochulukirapo komanso kusinthasintha kwakukulu pamapangidwe athu.Tidzakhala ndi mapangidwe a chimango, koma tidzakhala ndi makulidwe osiyanasiyana kuti tisinthe.Chofunika kwambiri ndi kukhala ndi zambiri momwe zingathere popanda kupereka nsembe.Kuphatikizika.”Kim adanena kuti makampani ang'onoang'ono monga Gentle Monster akhoza kuchita ntchito yabwino yoyesera msika, kupeza mayankho achindunji kuchokera kwa ogula, ndikuphatikiza ndemangazi muzotsatira zotsatila.Mosiyana ndi omwe amapanga zovala zamaso, Gentle Monster samayendetsedwa ndi ziwerengero zamaso kapena deta.Poyang'ana malingaliro a makasitomala ndi luso laukadaulo, lakula kukhala woyambitsa wamkulu.
Mykita ndi mtundu wa Berlin womwe umagulitsa zinthu kwa ogulitsa m'maiko 80, ndipo R&D ndiye maziko abizinesi yake.Moritz Krueger, CEO ndi director director a Mykita, adati makampani opanga zovala zamaso sanakwaniritsidwe.Krueger amakhulupirira kuti mawonekedwe ake osiyanasiyana ogula ndi nkhope ayenera kumveka bwino."Takhala tikupanga mndandanda wathu potengera kusanthula kwathunthu kwa mitundu yosiyanasiyana ya nkhope ndi zosowa zosiyanasiyana zamankhwala," adatero Kruger."[Tili ndi] mbiri yazinthu zonse, zomwe zimalola makasitomala athu kupanga chisankho choyenera padziko lonse lapansi ... kupeza bwenzi loyeneradi."
Njira yachitukukoyi ili pachimake cha Mykita, katswiri wazovala zamaso, yemwe wapanga zoposa 800 zowerengera.Mafelemu ake onse ndi opangidwa ndi manja ku Mykita Haus ku Berlin, Germany.
Mitundu yaying'ono iyi imatha kukhala ndi vuto lalikulu pamsika, ndipo pali zifukwa zambiri zomveka."Monga m'gulu lililonse, munthu watsopano pamapeto pake adzapambana chifukwa ali ndi chinthu choyenera, kulumikizana koyenera, mtundu woyenera, kalembedwe koyenera, ndipo akhazikitsa kulumikizana ndi ogula," adatero Francesca Di Pasquantonio wamkulu. , Deutsche Bank Equity Research.
Makampani apamwamba a mafashoni akufuna kubwera. Gentle Monster imagwirizana ndi mitundu monga Fendi ndi Alexander Wang.Kuphatikiza pa nyumba ya mafashoni, adagwirizananso ndi Tilda Swinton, Jennie wa Blackpink, World of Warcraft ndi Ambush.Mykita amagwirizana ndi Margiela, Moncler ndi Helmut Lang.Krueger adati: "Sitimangopereka zinthu zopangidwa ndi manja zokha, koma R&D yathu, ukadaulo wamapangidwe ndi makina ogawa zimaphatikizidwa mu projekiti iliyonse."
Chidziwitso chaukadaulo ndichofunikabe.Anita Balchandani, wamkulu wa McKinsey Europe, Middle East and Africa Apparel, Fashion and Luxury Group, adati: "Kwa mtundu wamtundu wapamwamba, zidzakhala zovuta kwambiri kukhala ndi malingaliro onse okhudzana ndi zoyenera komanso kuyesa."Ichi ndichifukwa chake timakhulupirira kuti akatswiri ovala m'maso apitiliza kuchitapo kanthu.Kumene zinthu zamtengo wapatali zingathandize ndi kukongoletsa kamangidwe ndi kugwirizana ndi akatswiriwa.”
Zipangizo zamakono ndi chida china cholimbikitsa kusintha kwa makampani a magalasi.Mu 2019, Gentle Monster adagwirizana ndi chimphona chaukadaulo waku China Huawei kuti atulutse magalasi ake oyamba anzeru, zomwe zimathandiza ogula kuyimba ndikulandila mafoni kudzera pagalasi."Izi ndi ndalama, koma tapindula kwambiri," adatero Jin.
Gentle Monster imadziwika chifukwa cha luso lake lazovala zamaso, zowonetsa zazikulu zamalonda komanso mgwirizano wapamwamba kwambiri.
Kugogomezera zaukadaulo kwakhala gawo lofunikira pakudziwika kwa Gentle Monster.Kim adanena kuti ogula amakopeka ndi zosiyana za mtunduwo.Zamakono zimaphatikizidwa mu sitolo ya Gentle Monster ndi uthenga wonse wamalonda.“Zimakopa ogula.Anthu omwe sanaganizirepo zogula magalasi amakopeka ndi maloboti athu ndi zowonetsera zathu, "adatero Jin.Sitolo yodziwika bwino ya Gentle Monster ikusintha zomwe zikuchitika pakugulitsa zovala zamaso kudzera m'magulu ochepa, maloboti ndi zowonetsera zatsopano.
Mykita anayesa kusindikiza kwa 3D ndikupanga mtundu watsopano wazinthu zotchedwa Mykita Mylon, zomwe zinapambana mphoto yapamwamba ya IF material design mu 2011. Mykita Mylon yopangidwa ndi ufa wabwino wa polyamide wosakanikirana ndi chinthu cholimba pogwiritsa ntchito teknoloji yosindikizira ya 3D-ndi yolimba ndipo imalola Mykita kuti apite. kuwongolera njira yopangira, Kruger adatero.
Kuphatikiza pa kusindikiza kwa 3D, Mykita yakhazikitsanso mgwirizano wosowa ndi wopanga makamera Leica kuti apange magalasi apadera komanso apadera a magalasi a Mykita.Krueger adati mgwirizano wapaderawu wakhala ukuchitika kwa zaka zoposa zitatu, kulola Mykita "kuchokera ku Leica magalasi owoneka bwino a dzuwa okhala ndi zokutira zomwe zimagwiritsidwa ntchito mofanana ndi magalasi a kamera ndi masewera a masewera."
Innovation ndi uthenga wabwino kwa aliyense mu makampani a magalasi."Zomwe tikuyamba kuwona tsopano ndi makampani omwe akupanga zatsopano, kuphatikiza mawonekedwe ndi mawonekedwe a omnichannel ndi momwe amaperekera chithandizo kwa ogula.Ndiwopanda msoko komanso wa digito, "adatero Balchandani."Tawona zatsopano zambiri m'derali."
Mliriwu wakakamiza opanga zovala zamaso kuti apeze njira zatsopano zofikira ogula.Cubitts ikugwiritsa ntchito luso la Heru loyang'ana nkhope kuti lisinthe momwe ogula amagulira magalasi, ndipo amalola ogwiritsa ntchito kugwiritsa ntchito luso la 3D kuyesa magalasi kunyumba."Pulogalamu ya Cubitts imagwiritsa ntchito sikani (gawo la millimeter) kuti isandutse nkhope iliyonse kukhala miyeso yapadera.Kenako, timagwiritsa ntchito miyeso iyi kuti tithandizire kusankha chimango choyenera, kapena kupanga chimango kuyambira pachimake kuti tikwaniritse zolondola Ndi kukula kolondola, "anatero Tom Broughton, woyambitsa Cubitts.
Kupyolera mu kufufuza mozama ndi kusanthula, Bohten akupanga zovala zokhazikika za maso zomwe zimayenera anthu a ku Africa.
Eyewa, wogulitsa maso wamkulu pa intaneti ku UAE, posachedwapa adakweza US $ 21 miliyoni muzandalama za Series B ndipo akufunanso kuwonjezera malonda ake a digito.Anas Boumediene, co-founder and co-CEO of Eyewa, adati: "Tikuyang'ana kuphatikiza kwa matekinoloje atsopano a hardware mu mndandanda wamtsogolo, monga zomvera zomvera.""Gwiritsirani ntchito ukadaulo wathu ndi ma omni-channel kudzera m'malo athu ogulitsira.Zomwe takumana nazo, tipita patsogolo kwambiri pakubweretsa misika yambiri pa intaneti. ”
Zatsopano zimafikiranso ku kukhazikika.Sikungokhala woyenerera.Co-founder Nana K. Osei adati: "Chifukwa chomwe ambiri mwa makasitomala athu amakonda kugwiritsa ntchito zinthu zosiyanasiyana zokhazikika, kaya ndi acetate yochokera ku zomera kapena zipangizo zosiyanasiyana zamatabwa, chifukwa chakuti chitonthozo ndi choyenera chimakhala bwino kwambiri kuposa mafelemu achitsulo.", woyambitsa mnzake wa Bohten, mtundu wa zovala zokongoletsedwa ndi Africa.Chotsatira: Wonjezerani moyo wa magalasi.Mulimonsemo, mitundu yodziyimira payokha ikutsogolera tsogolo latsopano la magalasi.
Lowetsani imelo yanu ndikukhala ndi zatsopano zamakalata, zoyitanira zochitika ndi kukwezedwa kudzera pa imelo ya Vogue Business.Mutha kusiya kulembetsa nthawi iliyonse.Chonde onani ndondomeko yathu yachinsinsi kuti mudziwe zambiri.
Nthawi yotumiza: Nov-10-2021